5 Whales, Tunnels, and the Escape

Wednesday, 17 June 2026 

Akureyri greeted us with its crisp northern air, and as always, the day began with a run. The fjord shimmered under the morning light, its calm waters hiding secrets we were about to uncover. By nine, we were at the harbor, bundled into heavy thermal suits that made us look like Arctic explorers. The boat pushed out into the fjord, and the wind lashed across our faces, sharp and biting.

For nearly an hour, the sea remained silent, testing our patience. Then, suddenly, the guide’s voice rang out over the loudspeaker, coordinates shouted with urgency. We turned just in time to see the ocean fracture. A humpback whale surfaced, its blowhole releasing a plume of mist into the cold air. Its massive tail arched gracefully before slipping back into the depths. The sight was humbling, a reminder of how small we were against the scale of nature.

The afternoon drive through fishing villages was a festival of color. It was Iceland’s Independence Day, and flags fluttered proudly from every home. Narrow single‑lane tunnels carved into mountains forced us to pause at passing bays, each stop a moment of suspense as vehicles squeezed past. Emerging from one tunnel, we pulled over to marvel at the Oreo Mountains, their dark rock and white snow layered like biscuits stacked by giants.

Lunch brought unexpected drama. Seven of us sat inside the stationary bus, enjoying our packed meal, when we realized the driver had locked the vehicle from outside. Trapped, we laughed nervously until someone spotted the emergency exit switch overhead. With a collective cheer, we overrode the locks and spilled out into the fresh air, triumphant in our absurd escape.

By evening, Borgarnes welcomed us. The hotel announced hot water would be shut off the next morning, canceling our ritual run. Before leaving, we bid farewell to our captain, Kollin, and Anita gifted him a handmade yellow cap, a splash of warmth against the Arctic chill.

The day had given us whales, tunnels, and an escape worthy of a novel. Tomorrow, the Silver Circle awaited…

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